Today we began to paddle down the Zambezi River from Gwabi Camp to Elephant Bone Island, being guided by Marshall. We left the camp at the crack of dawn and paddled 8 kilometres down the Kafue River to our first resting spot where the Kafue River meets the Zambezi River. Our total paddling distance will be 60 kilometres. Tracey and Terry-Lynn didn't make 100 metres as their kayak flipped as they entered the river and that was enough for them to quit. There were plenty of sightings of hippopotamus today all within a short distance, some a bit too close for comfort! Mostly they were approximately 10 metres away, all carefully watching us and hiding underwater. A hippopotamus can hold his breath for over seven minutes so there's no telling of where he's hiding until he reappears! There was one specific occasion where a dozen of hippopotami were in a pod. They saw us paddling past, got uncomfortable with our presence and began to move toward us. I panicked. Ian and I were stuck behind Kim and Jos so we encouraged them to paddle faster and harder. We took an opportunity to go past them instead, as they were hideously uncoordinated at the best of times, and with instructions from Ian to power paddle we made our escape. Phew!
There were only a couple of crocodiles on the river today, somewhat disappointing, but plenty of birds and there were a few elephant on the riverbank as we approached Elephant Bone Island. After setting up our wild camp on the sandy riverbank we chased them around the island capturing photographs for a while. There is one hippopotamus who is making some noise but he's reluctant to show himself. Maybe he'll tread through our camp instead tonight.
We have travelled almost 30 kilometres paddling today, which is something to be proud of in itself.
The evening ended with a talk about elephants, given by Paul around Douglas, a spade, who was introduced to as our 'wild toilet' companion.
Copyright 2002 Helen Fuller. All rights reserved.