An early rise, again, despite a late breakfast. Rich, Deb, Ian and I decided to venture outside the campsite gates to walk up to Rock Malawi on the top of a hill just out of the campsite. Despite not taking the trodden path we reached the summit in 40 minutes and then spotted a higher rock to which we set off to ascend. The view from the top was very unusual. The lake itself borders three countries and it is certainly more like looking across an ocean horizon than a lake. It's huge! There is plenty of vegetation and marshland around here and the view across the campsite to Snake Island, where there are no snakes, just plenty of lizards, was quite attractive but spoiled by clouds on the horizon. We made it back to camp within 2 hours, arriving just in time for breakfast.
A visit to the curio market on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere resulted in Ian and I acquiring a small wooden table displaying the big five animals on one side and the central African game 'bao' on the other. Paul was playing the game on the very same table as we were trying to haggle with the vendor! Ian managed to barter and purchased the table at two thirds of the starting price. Pretty fine first attempt at African haggling! It was only MKW 1,050 which equates to USD 13! It can't be bad! It's an exquisite piece and will be shipped home from Zanzibar in the coming days.
An afternoon spent by and in the lake in the sun and watching a game of bao as Paul explained the rules to us in the beach bar. After an entertaining game of volleyball whereby Jos clearly had little idea of the rules having just caught a ball flying directly towards him, another excellent feast by Paul and a cup of English tea made by my own fair hands, we went back to the bar for an evening session of bao. I won our first match and Connie stepped up to challenge me. It was her first game and I explained the rules to her as best I could having only played once myself. Connie won! I must have taught her well... My next game was with Rich who cleaned me out in two moves! 'This is a *@^# game!' I yell. Laughter is heard around the bar.
Eventually the long standing game between Ian and Deb finishes with Deb winning. Ian's not having much luck either it seems, so I step up to challenge Deb. And I win! As our rules insist that the winner continues Connie joins to challenge me again. I win again! 'This is a great game!' I yell. More laughter. My next challenge is Ian again and my winning streak continues. A hatrick! Although, sadly, it has to come to an end sometime. Another challenge from Ian robs me of my title. A marvellous game, and I'm yet to be challenged by the master himself. All the while we are playing there are small orange lizards running up and down the bar posts. My mosquitoes took a shine to me while we were sat at the bar. I received twenty bites over night.
Copyright 2002 Helen Fuller. All rights reserved.