CNN are still replaying the US flag incident when we awake, late, the attached nightclub having kept us awake for a while. We head down, around 10, for some breakfast where we get a continental (coffee, two slices of toast and a glass or orange) for W9,000. Hmm.
The weather looks better though and if we're not mistaken, that looks like sunshine. Memories of yesterday's cold keeps us indoors until checkout time. We stow our bags behind the desk and head out into the rather pleasant spring day. I can feel the heat on my head and dismiss thoughts of burning due to a) it's a spring sun and b) my new natural affinity for sunshine.
We head up to the railway station to buy tickets home to find out that not only is second class full but there are only four seats left in first class. First class it is then, please, W33,000 (no discounts). Declining either car or bicycle we head off down the poorly maintained pavement (a Korean speciality) in search of tombs and ruins. Narrowly avoiding being run over on a zebra crossing (another Korean speciality) we finally reach the Gyeongju National Museum. There was a place called Anapji Ponds over the road but we didn't fancy it as it was over the road and therefore too dangerous to get to and would probably charge.
The museum did charge but only W400 (US$0.25) for what was quite a good museum about the Silla period -- which included the Anapji Ponds, a royal retreat. As we walked in all was serene, only a dozen people in sight. When we approached the divine bell of (someone) the place erupted as hordes of schoolkids charged in. Despite the great tale of the bell -- when originally cast in 771AD (in some 19 tons of bronze) it made no sound, the local priest, based on a dream, chucked a small child into the remelted bronze and it then made a sound reputedly not unlike a small child calling "mummy" -- we were the objects of most fascination. About half the kids saying hello to us on their way past. They were funny, in a standard child fashion, in the exhibit halls as they filed past the exhibits at a brisk pace clearly paying no attention whatsoever but dutifully in a single line close to the glass. Anyone foolish enough to stop had half a dozen pile into the back of them.
There's only so much history you can pretend to consume in one day, especially with a pressing train appointment and a rumbly tummy. Wandering back through the park we encountered a miniature army: a hundred miniscule kids (five year olds?) dressed identically in pink with grey backpacks. I filmed the next batch who spontaneously launched into Hello, hello.
cheerily waving at these two tourists on their school trip.
We had lunch back at the tourist restaurant from yesterday, the train doesn't get to Seoul 'til nine so we needed something easy to understand and edible, where we were greeted enthusiastically. Something to do with the tip I left yesterday. Straightforward enough for Helen trying to order tea and putting her finger on Green Tea on the menu. The waitress checked saying Green tea?
and Helen said yes. I queried saying Green tea?
and Helen said to me, No, Korean tea.
Some undrinkable brew involving corn, twigs and others appeared. Green tea, I believe.
We arrived at the station, a good 1.2km from the hotel, flagging slightly but just in time for boarding. Confusion was on the cusp when a train appeared from the wrong direction and stopped way up the platform. Then, as we watched the guards turn unsettled passengers back a train appeared from behind us [the right direction] and joined up with the first. First class is not a whole bunch better than second barring a few free soft drinks, a newspaper and a pair of headphones to listen to the TV broadcasts/music. The sounds of nature channel was quite soothing.
Back to the Prince Hotel where "Gladys" wlecomed us back (at least she smiled for a change) and we had something akin to an upgrade. We then went back to the westernised bar for more easy food and beer. At this point I'll note that for a deal of Australasia Heinekin is promoted as a top brand of beer alongside, say, Beck's, and commands a premium in bars. Funny old world.
My head is a bit red.
Hotel Prince, Seoul N37.56158 E126.98622 Elev. 40m
Copyright 2003 Ian Fitchet. All rights reserved.