We're up at 7 to get down to the waterfront for 8 when the travel shop opens. We want to see either the rafflesia, the world's largest flower (and a bit of a stinker if I recall David Attenborough) or some pitcher plants and other meat eaters both of which require all day trips into Borneo parks starting at 8:30 or 9. We cross the road from the very closed shop and occupy a waterfront bench. For the next hour and a half. Actually some time was spent dozing but it still didn't help the shop open. A few others [shops] staggered into life but not the other tour shop [either].
At 9:30 we head off in search of the Merdeka Palace hotel, the alternate source of enquiries. The hotel is one of the biggest buildings in Kuching and looks a bit grubby on the outside. Inside, however, is very nice, no match for two, now very, sweaty backpackers. This isn't a good day to be walking. We pad across the black marbled lobby hoping the half dozen bell boys don't chuck us out. We're redirected to the tours desk where the man is sporting our shop's logo on his shirt. No, they won't be open today, it's a public holiday.
What?!
It's too late to go today which leaves tomorrow but we need to re-arrange our flights, certainly to later than 12:30, possibly to the next day. There is a Malaysian Airways office, but they might be closed, it's a public holiday. We retire to the Seattle Coffee shop on the ground floor to rest and revive.
Helen wants a photo of the state mosque, which frankly looks better lit up at night, before we return to the hotel. A total distance of maybe a kilometre but we're bashed after that. It's just too muggy. We stop in the air conditioned 26C to recover but the power in the room goes. I need to finish Helen's book so we sweat it out as it creeps back up to 30C. That's all but everything has a faintly damp feel to it, let alone us who are dripping.
We head off over to the Malaysian Airlines building after getting confirmation from the staff that the power has gone and they're working on it. The rare breeze is much appreciated and we're wilting reading the "Sorry we're closed" sign [in the airways building foyer]. So we try the 24hrs number. We spy some payphones and key in the 1-300 number (a freephone number?). After the fourth phone I suggest we move on. After a bit I suggest the Holiday Inn's Orchard Garden coffee house to use the mobile in. Not my best [idea], though the phone line was clear (a mere RM50 re-arrangement fee per ticket to the 7:35 flight) and they have a nice orchid on the table (we're experts now). I shalln't bore you with the details but my favourite touch was the centimetre of water already in my water goblet. I put it and the thought of asking for any water to one side.
Back up at Merdeka the tour man has gone AWOL but reception find him on the phone. Over a couple of calls (poor reception) a car will pick us up from our hotel at 8:30 tomorrow. That's all we know. We head up into the hotel's Victorian Arms pub for their happy hour (5-9, surely someone can come up with a better name?). The "pub" is quite well set out though the Tetleys (not known for travelling beyond the Ridings) isn't on the two for one so we settle for some Tiger and suffer the band rehearsing the same song for an hour. Ouch. Almost as bad as the RM19.50 for each beer -- we've paid RM8 previously. The bar has a big English Premier League display, not that big as it only shows the top 5 and bottom 5, not enough to cover Liverpool's meagre performance this year. I ask for a Tetleys, out of interest, and discover the man behind the bar now supports Newcastle rather than Liverpool, it turns out his boss is a Geordie. The beer tastes strangley treacley but is otherwise fine. The Geordie appears but is a bit mouthy so we decline to ask about his choice of work location. Being a bit tipsy now we head downstairs for a pleasant enough meal after which I'm pretty full. No, too full. Time to lie down and rest.
Fata Hotel, Kuching N1.55510 E110.34773 Elev. 23m
Copyright 2003 Ian Fitchet. All rights reserved.