We set off early for the long drive, over 500 km, to Dar Es Salaam at just after 7 (6 Southern African time). It was a cold night for us with a heavy dew -- even in Africa 1700m [up] is cold. The roads are pretty shoddy -- poor maintenance and the heat of the sun are to blame. The landscape has become rocky scrub and English roadside signs are in the minority.
There's plenty of construction work along the A7, the Tanzanian highway from Iranga to Dar (and it needs it) mostly for new bridges. All of which appear to be Japanese led efforts using some specialised Japanese gear (with Kangi [lettering] down the sides) and two or so Japanese supervisors per bridge. As ever we're shunted onto gravel roads and over box girder bridges.
Relative wealth (size of house, tin or straw roof) changes but football pitches with their bendy posts and crossbars [made from straight-ish branches] keep making appearances. Paul was saying that we would be unlikely to be able to buy any mineral water again on the way to Dar but you can buy Coke! Petrol is roughly 650-700 Tsh per litre (about 950 Tsh to US$1).
Drove through Mikumi Game park and spotted a few beasties. The road then became awful. At one point the A7 became a road under construction and we snaked across it on (presumably) the old road, now pretty much devoid of regular [any?] surface.
As we came into Dar the roadside became dominated by palm trees and bustling roadside shops. Other than the twelve foot high Coke bottles (selling Coke!) both Coke and Fanta sponsor shops with a three panel sign, the two outside panels advertise Coke/Fanta and the middle is left blank for the proprietor to stencil in their name. Hopefully [the name] is not more than the standard width of one panel.
We divert from Dar to head for the Silver Sands hotel and campsite at Bagamoyo where David Livingstone's body was brought to be shipped back to England. As we write, three baskets of chips are brought out for us Complimentary!
she says I should hope so, the amount I've paid for us
notes Paul.
The appearance of a scorpion (small pincer, small tail -- no problem) enlivens the erecting of our tent. The security guard with a rifle on the beach is to deter locals from taking valuables (including "running shoes") which suggests that putting the tent up on the beach is not a good idea.
Silver Sands S6.65482
E39.21271 Elev. 24m.
Yikes, the GPS thought I was 24m up even though I was stood with my toes in the Indian Ocean [if that's not sea level, what is?] I've recalibrated but it must be something to do with the Southern Hemisphere -- or Fort Bovisand where I set it last was 24m under water...
Took a dip in the Indian Ocean, as you do. Helen had another migraine including a loss of language comprehension, speech, pins and needles and headache so I packed her off to bed. Debs said she needed some TLC so I went into the tent too and promptly fell asleep.
Copyright 2002 Ian Fitchet. All rights reserved.